Wednesday, July 29, 2009

Old San Juan on foot

Architects love to walk around ancient cities, observing the structure of heritage buildings, explaining nuances of the particular style of architecture and pointing out the best architecture in the city they are in. My father is no exception and he was in his element when we went to San Juan, Puerto Rico. Old San Juan, according to him, and our guidebook, has the best architecture from Puerto Rico’s colonial period. He insisted that we spend at least two days walking around the town to see the marvels of Spanish colonial architecture. Protests and groans from the rest of the family led to a compromise and we settled on a one-day walking tour..

In spite of the fact that we had a knowledgeable guide assigned to accompany us, dad insisted on buying guide books and picking up colorful brochures at the visitors center. I browsed around the craft market nearby while he was busy collecting him maps and books. Armed with these and bottled water, we joined the group to see the best architecture that Old San Juan had to offer.

Castillo de San Cristobal, also called Saint Christopher Castle, is a fort which was completed in 1785. It is, apparently one of the largest forts in Puerto Rico. I clicked pictures of the city and the sea from there. But my favorite spot of the day was El Morro.. I had seen posters of Puerto Rico with the images of those sentry posts on the periphery of the fort. With those huge lawns and winding passages and dungeons, it represented, for me, the best architecture of the colonial period. For once, my father agreed, though he changed his mind once he saw Cuartel de Ballaja or the Ballaja Barracks. These barracks had a central courtyard that was built over a reservoir and large balconies with arches. The complex included warehouses, prison cells as well as kitchens and dining rooms for the officers who stayed there..

La Casa Blanca has each room decorated with period furniture that is in tune with the history of the house. This home has been continuously occupied for the last two centuries by Ponce de Leon and his descendants. Another candidate for the best architecture label, the house is a fascinating reminder of the city’s heritage.

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